The Mỹ Sơn Site

Thirty Kilometres or so south of Dà Nẵng lies the World Heritage Site of Mỹ Sơn. (Pronounced roughly like Mee Sern.) These were Champa lands. And here the last remains of the last outpost of Hindu cultural influence can still be seen despite the ravages of many wars, invasions and the best attempts at colonisation by the French, and by the flora of a tropical climate. The significance of the Site is for the way it exhibits the meeting of three of the world's great cultures: Hinduism, Buddhism and Confucianism. And it also the point where the Sub-continent's influence came to a halt up against the Culture of East Asia.

March 2011

The approach to the first buildings
The approach to the first buildings
The approach to the first buildings

The My Son Site is situated in a wide valley, the surrounding hills forming a backdrop in all directions. The buildings are on a slight rise, allowing sight of these hills, where the jungle thins enough to permit a view. There were probably some 70 'towers' of various types in the area of which about 20 can still be seen.

The site is beautifully circled by hills
The site is beautifully circled by hills
The site is beautifully circled by hills Largest building of the main complex
Largest building of the main complex
Largest building of the main complex

On reaching the monument area the visitor is at once beside the most intact group of 'buildings'. There are five such groups each with three or four main structures, and some lesser constructions. They are well separated over a half square mile. Other remnants can also be seen. Some buildings take the form of towers
Some buildings take the form of towers
Some buildings take the form of towers

The best preserved is now a museum
The best preserved is now a museum
The best preserved is now a museum

This first group of buildings that the visitor reaches are probably from the 10th and 11th Centuries, however they are built on earlier bases. These are dedicated to Hindu worship, the ornamentation and statues making this plain.

Carvings and Linga still abound
Carvings and Linga still abound
Carvings and Linga still abound Tower in the second group of buildings
Tower in the second group of buildings
Tower in the second group of buildings Pleasantly treed, but soon uncontrolled
Pleasantly treed, but soon uncontrolled
Pleasantly treed, but soon uncontrolled

The Champa Kingdom, which was probably more like a loose federation, was in place from the 3rd Century through till the 1700s. Although it was founded by Hindus, Buddhism had appeared by 700, and was in the ascendance by 1100. The Site has remains of both influences - Sheva and the Buddha are well represented here.

In the tropics vegitation soon takes control
In the tropics vegitation soon takes control
In the tropics vegitation soon takes control

The buildings one sees range from the earliest of about the 7th Century through to the later ones of the 12th Century. Here the oldest remains are being sheltered while restoration work is undertaken.

The oldest buildings are protected
The oldest buildings are protected
The oldest buildings are protected Buddhist tableau from Dong Duong
Buddhist tableau from 20 Kilms. south of My Son
Buddhist tableau from 20 Kilms. south of My Son

The Dong Duong Site is about 20 Kilometres south of My Son, this restored set of images can be seen in the Na Dang Champa Museum, the group was probably carved in the late 800s a little after the in situ carving at My Son shown in the next picture.

8th Century Carved Brick Buddha
8th Century Carved Brick Buddha
8th Century Carved Brick Buddha Well preserved and typical roof
Well preserved and typical roof
Well preserved and typical roof

The Champas occupied the low lying southern area of modern Vietnam and managed to resist the unwelcome advances of their big northern Chinese neighbour, although at times they offered tribute. Their most famous cultural centre was Angkor in modern Cambodia.

Doors and roof still intact
Doors and roof still intact
Doors and roof still intact Doorway with columns
Doorway with columns
Doorway with columns Many of the columns are on the ground
Many of the columns are on the ground
Many of the columns are on the ground Detail of carving on column
Detail of carving on column
Detail of carving on column Wall of Hindu statues
Wall of Hindu statues
Wall of Hindu statues

The main carvings on the walls are executed in brick, other work is in sandstone which has lasted relatively well. It is thought that the long life of the brick may have been due to firing the whole building as though it were in a huge kiln.

Many carvings still visible in situ
Many carvings still visible in situ
Many carvings still visible in situ Rich Hindu Niches for statues
Rich Hindu Niches for statues
Rich Hindu Niches for statues

These elephants were on a building which was probably used as a place to keep books and special ritual objects used in the neighbouring buildings. The whole site seems to have been for religious and ritual purposes and not for secular use.

Elephant & Bird Carvings
Elephant & Bird Carvings
Elephant & Bird Carvings This Hindu figure stands outside
This Hindu figure stands outside
This Hindu figure stands outside

One of the main interests in the site is for the way the various cultures interplay in its art. Notice the simple graceful Far Eastern form of the figures and the restraint in the groups compared to similar work in India. There are still many carvings on the Site, but the best works have been taken to the protection of the Champa Museum in Da Nang.

Restrained graceful statue
Restrained graceful statue
Restrained graceful statue Exuberant Hindu carving
Exuberant Hindu carving
Exuberant Hindu carving Champa Museum has many examples
Champa Museum has many examples
Champa Museum has many examples